Jewelry art. Jewelry masters

2024 Author: Leah Sherlock | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 05:25

Jewelry art is the manufacture of various products, usually from precious metals using gems. Initially, such things served not only for beauty, but also to emphasize the high social status of the owner or owner. Also, magical functions were often attributed to jewelry. They were used, for example, as protective amulets and talismans. The history of jewelry goes back to ancient times. Initially, the creation of jewelry did not involve any kind of processing. Over the centuries, art has improved, craftsmen have created more and more complex and exquisite jewelry. Let's trace the history of the jewelry craft and name its outstanding masters.

Ancient Egypt

Jewelry art was surprisingly well developed in Ancient Egypt. The decorations created there still amaze with their beauty and complexity. In form, they usually resembled images of ancient deities. In ancient Egypt, they believed that jewelry performs magical functions: it protects against diseases and evil spells, it connects a person with the forces of nature.

Wearing jewelry was supposed to be on certain parts of the body. First of all, it was the region of the heart (it was considered the most significant organ). To protect it, items in the form of a scarab were worn on the chest. The beetle symbolized vitality, activity, resurrection. In addition, the middle of the forehead was an important point. Ancient Egyptian craftsmen, making decorations for her, used symbols of strength and wisdom, such as images of a snake. Speaking about the technique of making products, it can be noted that chasing and engraving were usually used, and the favorite materials of the Egyptians were gold, silver, obsidian and amethyst.

Ancient Greece

The ancient jewelry art in Greece was distinguished by great elegance and subtlety. The favorite technique of the craftsmen was filigree - the execution of the most complex pattern from thin gold or silver wire soldered to a metal background. Most often, a floral ornament was used: images of flowers, leaves, vines.

Of the materials, gold was most valued - the ancient Greeks attributed magical properties to this metal. In general, jewelry emphasized the status of the owner, so the thinner and more complex the work, the more expensive it was. We althy Greek women wore a wide variety of jewelry. Fine products for hair and neck, as well as bracelets were held in high esteem. The exception was perhaps Sparta - local women did not wear lush and fancy jewelry, preferring simple metal jewelry.

Renaissance Jewelry

Renaissance jewelry is striking in its sophistication, beauty and complexity. Craftsmen used a variety of techniques, including chasing, cutting and enamelling. They were largely influenced by ancient traditions, at the same time, features typical of those years were also introduced.

So, decorations no longer indicate the status of the owner, but emphasize the refinement of taste and fantasy. They become unique and distinctive. Gems, pearls and exquisite enamel details adorn not only jewelry, but also magnificent ladies' outfits. Rings and massive pendants are becoming very popular.

In Germany, craftsmen use very unusual materials: coconut shells, ostrich eggs and shells.

Jewelers of Ancient Russia

Russian jewelry art has a great history. This is evidenced by modern archaeological excavations: the quality and subtlety of the work of ancient craftsmen still amaze. The jewelry art of Ancient Russia was influenced by the Scandinavian, Eastern and Byzantine cultures, and at the same time was inextricably linked with folk customs and traditions.

Masters from all corners of Kievan Rus mastered the most complex techniques, including artistic casting, filigree and gold picking. Veliky Novgorod was famous for its jewelry made of precious metals. Kyiv jewelers processed gems with extraordinary skill. The most common decorations were the so-called temporal rings, whichwoven into the hair or hung from headdresses. Women also wore a variety of bracelets and beads with pendants.

Rus in the XIV-XVII centuries

With the advent of the Tatar-Mongol hordes, jewelry was forgotten for almost a century. Many craftsmen died or were taken away to work for the Horde rulers. Only towards the end of the 14th century does a gradual return to ancient art begin. Moscow is becoming the center of jewelry craft, where the technique of silver filigree is very popular.

In the 16th-17th centuries, jewelry art actively used enamel and gems. The decorations of this period are characterized by richness, colorfulness and saturation of colors. Stones also differ in brightness - sapphires, rubies, emeralds are held in high esteem. This time is called the heyday of blackening technology. Silversmithing centers are being set up in many cities.

18th century European Jewelry

In the 18th century, the dominant styles were baroque and rococo. This also applies to jewelry. Fancifulness, splendor and bright colors become fashionable. At the same time, the leading position is occupied by French jewelry art. It was then that jewelry acquired its modern look. Jewelry ensembles are gradually coming into fashion, large brooches are very popular with we althy people. The most favorite stones are yellowish, pinkish and bluish diamonds, and they are used in both men's and women's suits.

Rus in the 18th century

In Russia in the 18th century, jewelry art flourished. This happened largely due to the reforms of Peter I. Since then, jewelry has been actively borrowing European trends, while maintaining its originality. Foreign masters often come to Russia. Among them is the famous Jeremy Pozier, who worked at the court for thirty years and created true masterpieces of jewelry art. His best work is considered to be the Great Imperial Crown, made for Catherine II. Unique in its kind, the product has almost five thousand diamonds. Now this relic is carefully preserved by the unique museum of jewelry art - the Diamond Fund in Moscow.

In general, the use of precious stones becomes popular at this time. Sparkling, bright, superbly crafted and decorated, they perfectly complement and decorate the magnificent outfits of noble ladies and nobles.

Interestingly, the word "jeweler" itself also came into use in the 18th century. It replaced the rather long title "gold and silversmith".

Europe in the 19th century

In the middle of the 19th century, jewelry became more widespread. At the same time, less valuable stones and materials began to be used: aquamarine, rock crystal, malachite, artificial diamonds. Jewelry art has also changed the general style - classicism is replacing rococo, respectively, jewelry becomes more strict and carefully crafted. Products with precious stones are gradually ceasing to be used in men'scostumes, but cane knobs and expensive snuffboxes are in vogue.

Martin Guillaume Bienne, the court jeweler of Napoleon I, can be distinguished from famous masters. World famous houses like Cartier and Tiffany are born in the 19th century.

The state of affairs in Russia in the 19th century

The highest level of jewelry in Russia reached in the XIX century. At this time, the direction of work changes significantly, the craftsmen try to move away from European traditions and return to the original Russian ones, giving the products a national flavor. River pearls are becoming especially fashionable.

In St. Petersburg and Moscow, large enterprises of silver and gold business appear. The firms of Ovchinnikov, Postnikov, the Grachev brothers and, of course, Carl Faberge are especially famous. With their amazing skill, they conquer not only the Russian nobility, but also the royal courts of Western Europe. However, their products are also available to the average buyer - we are talking about cigarette cases and silverware.

According to experts, the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th century is the golden age of Russian jewelry art.

Twentieth century

In the past century, a large number of directions have been formed in the jewelry art. In the first decades, the dominant style is modern. In jewelry art, his influence was realized in the extreme complexity of the forms and ornaments of jewelry. Platinum, palladium, anodized aluminum are actively used. Getting popular againdiamonds. Fashion jewelry is also becoming fashionable, the distribution of which was significantly influenced by the famous Coco Chanel.

In the war and post-war years, products become simpler, gold is often replaced by bronze. In the second half of the century, under the influence of nonconformist ideas, craftsmen began to use unusual materials in their work, previously unthinkable for jewelry: wood, plastic, steel, and others. With the development of sophisticated technology, jewelry with chameleon stones appears, capable of changing color depending on temperature changes or the mood of the owner. Cultured pearls of various colors are becoming popular.

In the Soviet years, Russian jewelry firms produced mostly mass products. But at the end of the last century, modern masters decided to revive the guild of Russian jewelers in order to return the art of jewelery to its former glory.

Modern Art

Today, perhaps more than before, the craft of jewelry is becoming an art. Jewelry is one of the forms of creative self-expression. Modern businesses use more professional tools and affordable materials. However, many products are made of synthetic materials. And although they cannot surpass the beauty and perfection of natural stones, they still compete with them with dignity.

Modern jewelry art worthily continues the traditions of the old masters. And the use of new technologies allows you to create more and more unusual and interesting jewelry.