2024 Author: Leah Sherlock | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 05:25
The development of specific features of the folk costume occurs mainly under the influence of climatic, socio-historical factors and national mentality. Also, a significant role in the formation of one or another stylistic image of a folk costume is played by neighborhood and relationships with other ethnic groups and their cultural and everyday features of life. In any case, the national dress is a synthesis of folk art. Drawing a folk costume in stages will be a good way to remember its main features. After all, clothing is the face of an ethnic group, a mirror reflecting its way of life and beliefs.
In today's society, with increasing interest in their culture, people are eager to find out what Russian folk costumes are, how to draw them. To fully satisfy your interest, you need to master some theory of the origin of clothing. For example, you can consider a female or male Russian folk costume, draw it in watercolor in stages, thereby fixing the presented image on paper.
The history of Russian folk clothes
The history of the Russian costume has manycenturies. Statistically almost unchanged conditions of peasant life, the climatic and natural environment of life, the religious environment and folk beliefs have formed a clothing style that is maximally adapted to hard work.
Many artists are wondering how to draw a Russian folk costume. To do this, you need to know its specific features. Firstly, such features are lightness, functionality, ease of dressing. Each type of activity has its own clothing - from undershirts and kazakins to long-skirted sheepskin coats and coats. The very activity of daily activities set its own framework for cutting and sewing clothes - a wide wedge was inserted into the trousers, and diamond-shaped gussets were inserted into the armpits of the shirt. The clothes had a wide smell and were without buttons - it was tied with a sash, and any member of the family could at any time put on a zipun and a zipunnik or a sheepskin coat on a shirt.
The design of the sundress, shirt, poneva, coat and zipun practically did not require the use of scissors, and the excess material was extremely insignificant.
So how to draw a Russian folk costume, guided by knowledge of its lineup?
Female and male Russian national costumes
Russian folk costume differed by gender, age and territorial affiliation. You need to know this in order to imagine what Russian folk costumes look like, how to draw them.
Children's clothes repeatedcut and decoration of an adult, but was sewn in a smaller size and from a cheaper fabric. In summer, children wore long shirts tied with belts.
To draw a Russian folk costume for men, it is useful to know that men's clothes were of the same type. Her complex included a shirt, a belt, ports, an upper and lower caftan, bast shoes or boots and a headdress.
Choose the position of the suit, its features of cut and color
To draw a Russian folk costume step by step, you must remember that the costume of different segments of the population differed not only in the number of details, but also in the variety of materials, having the same cut of its individual parts.
Thus, a large number of draperies and folds creates an additional volume of clothing, giving it the illusion of layering. Therefore, the artist should avoid the compositional congestion of the silhouette, and if this congestion still takes place in the cut of clothes, then it is necessary to minimize the number of folds.
Fabrics have always been dyed with vegetable dyes - the predominance of red is due to the presence of madder weed as a dye in every village, while green dyes were brought exclusively from China. This is important to voice in order to show how to draw a Russian folk costume.
Dummy line drawing
Before drawing a Russian folk costume in stages, it is necessary to determine the angle of the transmitted image and its technical and stylistic qualities.
For a more open "panoramic" type of clothing, it is recommended to depict it in a "three-quarters" rotation, to build which the suit will be rotated along the "y" axis of the ternary coordinate system, that is, turned 95 degrees relative to the observer. This angle allows you to simultaneously show the object both in full face and in profile. You can copy the Russian folk costume (photo), draw it quite simply.
From such an angle, as shown below, the reliefs and decorations of such women's headdresses as kichka or kokoshnik will be perfectly visible.
Physiological features of the mannequin
So, the middle line of the mannequin's body will lie on the "y" axis: it is also worth depicting shoes along it - for women it is represented by low-heeled shoes, boots or bast shoes, for men - boots or bast shoes.
Three lines are randomly drawn: shoulders, chest and pelvic girdle. Then, two ovals are built along the limb belts - respectively, male and female anatomy. To draw a Russian folk costume in stages, you need to add another line to the female mannequin - at the level of the midline of the chest - it will indicate the angle of the female chest. Then all the limb belts and the line of the shoulders are connected by the contour of the body, curved at an arbitrary waist.
Having asked the question of how to draw a Russian folk costume step by step, it should be remembered that two of the huge variety of women's clothing can be distinguished: South Russian and North Russian.
Therefore, in order to draw a Russian folk costume in stages, first a territorial model of the costume is selected: for the South Russian - an embroidered shirt, an apron, a belt, a plaid poneva, a shortened shoulder shirt, a "magpie" headdress; for the North Russian - a shirt, a long sundress, a belt, a warm jacket, a kokoshnik.
Methods of practical decoration of Russian folk costumes
Embroidery and patterned weaving have been used by Russians since ancient times to decorate clothes. Patterned weaving includes a three-dimensional pattern with a convex (mostly red) ornament located in stripes across the fabric.
When using the patterned sewing technique, it is very difficult to convey the round outlines of the pattern, therefore the motifs of the ornament are geometrized and straightforward, and the circle motif in sewing was transmitted using rhombuses or squares set at an angle. On the combined festive clothes, an ornament was made in the form of stitching, embroidery, sewn ribbons, small appliqué, located along the shoulder seams, underlay seams, and the like, thus marking the structural and functional elements. The ornament was used only small, geometric, less often vegetative. On underwear, the ornament primarily performed a protective function based on popular superstitions, and covered the collar, cuffs of the sleeves and the hem of the shirt.
Drawing the decorated parts of clothing
On both mannequins in the shoulder area, a shirt is drawn with long sleeves falling down, cuffswhich or the sleeves themselves are covered with a girdle pattern of red and white stripes. A similar pattern should cover the shirt collar - for women it is round or finely gathered, for men it is oblique.
At the level of the female chest, the bodice of a sundress is drawn, the straps of which, trimmed with yellow or red ornaments, are drawn to the shoulders. The bodice of the sundress goes around the rounded female breast, descends to the very bottom in two lines. The hem of the sundress can be covered with horizontal or vertical patterns.
The men's shirt continues to the level of the waist, where it is intercepted by the circumference of the belt, and then drawn out. Its lower edge is also covered with an ornament.
Below the line of the pelvic girdle, the legs of the ports are drawn, reaching the level of the ankles.
The shirt is white, the sundress is more often red, less often green or blue; ornament - red, green or yellow, less often blue. Ports for men were sewn from gray or dark brown cloth.
A kokoshnik, drawn in the shape of a crescent, decorated with arbitrary scallops and lines, a rounded or rectangular color pattern, is perfect for a women's sundress. Patterns should always be small and placed along the hem line of a dress or shirt.
Light shadow overlay
To draw a full-fledged Russian folk costume with a pencil, you need to apply a light shading of shadows. It will run along the edge of the shirt along the sleeves, in a single spot from the chest line to the middle of the pelvic girdle. It is recommended to run on sleeves and vertical planesa few folds - there the picture will bend and a shadow will be superimposed.
The drawing-cell should be applied to the already toned plane with a hard pencil. In the planes adjacent to the viewer, the drawing is distinguished by strokes of increased softness.
Scenic watercolor treatment
The color saturation of the paint on the brush must be checked on the plane of the white palette before each stroke. First, the required color segment is filled, then a second tone is applied to emphasize the accents of the perspective and color saturation of the image.
For the most part, Russian folk clothes were made of shiny smooth fabrics that acquire bright reflections in the sun. Therefore, it is recommended not to touch in advance the color of the surfaces that stand out in the sun, and to make the tone for them with a brush from the paint by repeatedly blurring it.
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